Whilst, at first glance, it may seem obvious that the purpose of a watch is to be a tool for time keeping, it’s not quite so clear why mechanical watches remain a fixture in the modern world. Over the past 70 years, since the inaugural Hamilton Electric 500, electronic devices have evolved to far surpass the mechanical in accuracy, portability and reliability yet a Rolex, for example, still exceeds the price of even the most sophisticated smartwatch. Why is this the case?
Firstly, a key reason the watch is still a valued item and not a relic is its aesthetic unity. Aristotle reflected: “The structural unity of the parts is such that, if any one of them is displaced or removed, the whole will be disjointed and disturbed". Out of the parts of a watch: gears, springs, hands, bracelet, arises a new thing that provides a sense of artistic pleasure. Each part fits perfectly together and works towards a common goal. In a watch, the tolerances are such that the gears have to be cut within 1-3 microns of the theoretical measurements. If they are slightly off, the watch won't fit together. The approximation of such perfection within the watch is recognised by the wearer who reveres the craftsmanship required to accomplish such a feat.
Secondly, iconography plays an important role in the ongoing popularity of the watch in the modern era. The watch has accompanied humanity to the Moon (Omega Speedmaster Professional), descended the Mariana Trench (Rolex Deep Sea Special) and even summited Everest (Rolex Oyster Perpetual). The watch, in these cases, symbolises the sophistication of the tools of man. Indeed, the Moon watch which was entirely mechanical containing a labyrinth of springs, gears and rotors, wasn’t just stylistic but NASA certified as an essential backup in case the electronic timing systems on board the space shuttle failed. The watch is the last incarnation of technology serving man rather than man being subservient to technology. A watch doesn't demand your attention like a phone. It doesn’t show ads, it simply sits on your wrist waiting to be of use. This is the power of a mechanical watch.
Finally, the watch is embedded in the Western tradition of the suave and sophisticated, whether it's James Bond’s Omega Seamaster or Marilyn Monroe’s 1940s Blancpain diamond encrusted dinner watch. The timepiece has always been associated with heritage-inspired formal elegance. A watch is like a tie in this respect: while a tie has no utilitarian purpose as such, it is associated with business and a put-together-person. It is a signifier of competence and control.
The mechanical watch survives, not only due to its function but also because of what it symbolises. Mechanically, stylistically and culturally the watch embodies the ingenuity of humans and our enduring ability to transform raw materials into objects of function, beauty and meaning. In the modern era, a watch reminds us that our needs our often best service without additional distractions.
S.L.H.